How about the III instead?
Altec Stonehenge III (3577A) Cabinet plans
Wondering where to find Altec Stonehenge V plans. Am thinking about purchasing a set of 604-8H-IIIs and am thinking Stonehenge Vs would work best in my space. However, I need to run the plans by a cabinet builder to see what he would charge to build before I commit to the drivers. Anyone? Sure would appreciate any guidance - the plans seem not to exist on the interwebs.
Jeff
How about the III instead?
Altec Stonehenge III (3577A) Cabinet plans
Your neighbors called. They like your music.
The one problem that I found with Jeff M's drawing is that the depth is 14 3/4 but original was 17 1/4. Other than that they are great drawings.
Here is a link to the original dimensions:
http://www.lansingheritage.org/image...ome/page07.jpg
Yes, seen the 3s. I want more bass. And I have the space.
Too bad a similar detailed drawing does not exist for the Vs somewhere.
Maybe this guy will sell you a copy?
Built to Order Altec Lansing Stonehenge V 5 Cabinets Oak Walnut etc for 604'S | eBay
Barring that get the dims from literature and work out the porting with a box program.
Your neighbors called. They like your music.
Give me the dimensions, the panel thickness and I will give you 2d and 3d diagrams and volums.
"James, a little knowledge is a dangerous thing!" World's scariest Volvo: [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AKn-LTNa4rc[/url]
Well, DJK [who I trust] says it's 620 size, which is 9 ft^3 gross and Bill recommends 9 ft^3 net, so figure out what its gross will ~ be with the driver, bracing, and divvy it up to whatever H x W x D you like, though preferably make the W x D some golden or acoustic ratio to minimize the amount of internal damping required. The driver, vent location should be at odd modes in a high aspect ratio cab same as the speaker, listening position in a room, i.e. at ~ 3rds, 5ths, 7ths, etc., of its inside [i.d.] height .
FWIW, putting the vent close to the driver is all well and good in a typical rectangular cab, but the 'V' has a high enough aspect ratio for some minor ? WL TL pipe action to help damp the vent [and ideally should be taller], so placing the vent much closer to the bottom is a good plan for a theoretically smoothest response whereas up high it adds a second reflection that creates a broadband notch in the upper bass, defeating any TL pipe action.
Basically, the 'V' should sound like a big reflex unless the cab is relatively densely treated to roll off any peaking at tuning [Fb], but normally the goal is to maximize acoustic efficiency, so not a good plan.
Bill?s a successful horn designer, so has to know this. I guess he just chooses to stick to tradition for tradition?s sake and/or his main market wants it that way.
Regardless, you want more bass, then you need to go larger, tuned lower, so how big in H x W x D can you ?afford? and how much, if any EQ [and type] are you willing to use?
GM
Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents.
Well, I want more bass than a Stonehenge III can deliver. Just trying to maximize the driver's potential without the use of subs. There will be no EQ.
Somewhere someone said the Stonehenge V cabinet dimensions are 50" tall, 22" wide, and 18" deep. Though that baffle measurement seems small to me. I've read that you'd want at least 24-26" width but I'm operating on a limited understanding of why a larger baffle may be better. But that's probably as large as cabinet as I'd want in my listening room (room dimensions are roughly 18'x30').
I suppose I could look further at an MLTL design. Though evidently Martin King's calculator for this type of design is now "private."
j mathers--are you jerry mathers--the beaver?
Being of "Sound" Mind
Sounds proportionally about right based on looking at this: Iconic Speaker Manufacturing - Stonehendge PageOriginally Posted by jmathers
Right, narrower baffles roll off the lower frequencies as they fold back away due to being so large compared to it. This is called baffle step loss, so the narrower the baffle, the higher in frequency this begins. Consequently, narrow baffles typically need baffle step compensation [BSC] unless the speaker isn?t too deep and pushed up against a wall or in a corner.
Large Altec, etc., speakers are wide enough that shelving down the mids/HF to flat or a little lower is usually sufficient since it will be combining with the room?s gain.
FYI, MJK has temporarily made them available again for his yahoo! Group members, so join up if you?re interested: https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/.../messages/3995
GM
Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents.
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